Without going into technical details or gushing aroma and flavour descriptions it is fair to say that the traditional process produces a more distinctive, unique and enjoyable product and one with more winemaking integrity than simply blending white and red wine.
This uniqueness and distinctiveness has in recent years begun to be appreciated by a much wider wine drinking market. For example growth in rosé consumption in the UK has been astronomical recently. Apparently 10% of all wine consumed there is now rosé.
In New Zealand rosé consumption has also grown very rapidly in the last few years. We are not hampered by any particular regulations as to how we can make rosé wines, so there may be some examples made using the red-white blending procedure. In the Matakana region the number of rosé wines now produced has just about reached double figures, and to the best of my knowledge they are all made in the traditional manner.
True rosé is very different from the lolly-water formerly sold under the name of rosé, which gave it such a bad name for many. It is also very different from the red wines produced from the same grape varieties. Rosé can be delightful consumed chilled on a summer afternoon, or slightly warmer at this time of year and into winter – try it as an aperitif or with antipasti.
Call in to The Vintry next time you are in Matakana village and you will be able to taste the full array of local rosés. Approach them with an open mind and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed - you might even become a convert, as many others have in recent times.
Robin Ransom
President, Matakana Winegrowers Inc.
robin@ransomwines.co.nz.
(Originally published in Mahurangi Matters, April 2009
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( 2.9 / 547 )The daily round of news we are getting about global economic recession and its effects both abroad and in New Zealand is depressing and can be quite scary. The most dramatic manifestations of it so far have been overseas, although we are starting to see job losses in New Zealand, and those who are retired or close to it are arguably in the worst position of all, with interest rates, property values and investment portfolio values dropping through the floor.
In view of all this it is nice to be able to report some good news. It is clear from lots of anecdotal evidence that at least in some sections of the local economy, the anticipated recession has yet to take hold. Quite the opposite in fact. Warkworth Visitor Information Centre is reporting a big jump in visitor numbers this summer over last. This seems to be a pattern amongst businesses servicing the needs of visitors to the area and also the needs of locals who like to get out and about. The common experience has been a good season of trading to date, with some reporting a considerably better summer than previous years.
How can this be? Great summer weather? Partly, but while January was excellent, February has not been all that good, and yet the buoyant trading continues. The new motorway extension bringing more people in to the area? Partly, but business for many was going well long before it opened.
These effects are playing a part, but something else may be happening as well. Perhaps people are tightening their belts on big-ticket spending, especially overseas travel, and channelling more time and money into local recreational activities. The money not spent on bigger items allows this, but also it gives good times in the face of endless bad economic news. People are enjoying themselves without spending a fortune.
Even a relatively small proportion of Aucklanders making these sorts of changes means that we in beautiful Matakana and Mahurangi become the recipients of their recreational spending. In addition it seems that many local people – possibly more than usual, are also out and about and having a great summer with family and friends. That is all good for the local business community, and with more money coming into the area, it must be good for the wider community as well.
Robin Ransom
Originally published in Mahurangi Matters March, 2009)
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( 3 / 495 )At this time of year we expect the weather to be great – endless sunny days stretching into the distance. And so it has been, which is great for local winegrowers. In Matakana we had an excellent spring so the vines have set large crops. Since spring the summer has also been very kind. Warm and mostly dry, and with enough wind to curb any effects of humidity on the vines. Magnificent ripening weather, and if it keeps up we could be in for an early and excellent season. However we don’t count our chickens in this game – the vintage is not over until it is over.
This year we are all facing an uncertain future due to the gathering economic storm – black clouds on the horizon. Winegrowers have been alerted to the implications of this by our professional body, the Wine Institute of NZ. In the face of a potential reduction in demand for New Zealand wine offshore due to harder times economically, they have recommended that we consider bunch-thinning our crops so as to produce less wine. Bunch thinning is the process of selectively removing a proportion of every vine’s bunches of grapes a few months before ripening. This recommendation was aimed squarely at Marlborough, with its vast acreages of sauvignon blanc – its “savalanche” as one wit has dubbed it, most of which has to be exported. But it is a message we would all do well to consider.
Bunch thinning has the effect of reducing production costs but perhaps more importantly, smaller crops make better wine (all other things being equal). So the argument is that the increased wine quality that comes with bunch-thinning might help to minimize any drop in demand in a market where people are being cautious in their spending. At the very least it will help to keep a high quality image for NZ wine in the minds of our overseas consumers, which will put us in good stead for when the economic storm passes.
In the Matakana region the combination of a great spring fruit set and the uncertainty ahead gives us a double reason to thin our crops. Bunch-thinning is not much fun, but the combined economic and wine quality reasons for doing it are compelling.
The silver lining probably applies more to you the buyers of wine: If winegrowers heed the advice of their professional body, economic pressures may mean that over the next few years you will be able to buy even better quality New Zealand wines and at very good prices.
Robin Ransom
President, Matakana Winegrowers Inc.
robin@ransomwines.co.nz
Originally published in Mahurangi Matters February 2009
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( 2.9 / 471 )Many people prefer to drink white wine during the summer, so this is a good time to talk about the Matakana region’s most widely grown grape, Pinot Gris.
Probably the best known Pinot Gris wines are those from the Alsace region of north eastern France. But it is widely grown elsewhere, for example in Switzerland, where it is known as Malvoisie, in Germany, as Rulander or Grauburgunder, in Italy, as Pinot Grigio, in Hungary, as Szurkebarat, and also in Austria, Slovenia, Moravia, Romania, Russia and Moldova, under various names. Pinot Gris is rapidly becoming a favourite in New Zealand, being currently our fourth most widely planted variety after Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with by far the fastest rate of acreage growth in recent years.
Pinot Gris (“grey pinot”) is apparently a natural genetic mutation of Pinot Noir, (“black pinot”). Pinot Noir is Burgundy’s famous red grape, and Burgundy is where Pinot Gris first appeared, in the early Middle Ages, so it has been around for a long time. The name is a reference to the skin colour as it ripens. Ripe berries can be anything from greyish-blue to brownish-pink, compared with the black of Pinot Noir.
The wine has a reputation for being luscious and sometimes unctuous. Some see it as being all about mouthfeel and texture, as it has more gentle flavours and aromas than many varieties. These characteristics make for great versatility as a food wine. Some New Zealand commentators puzzle at why it has become so popular, noting that there is not yet a recognizable New Zealand “style” of Pinot Gris. This is partly because some producers make it slightly sweet, while others prefer it drier and more crisp.
My view is that its popularity owes something to the fact that New Zealand wine drinkers have become more sophisticated in recent years, and have found in Pinot Gris an excellent food wine which is also an easy-drinking alternative to some of the aggressive, obvious, sledgehammer wines which have dominated our wine scene for many years, such as Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and oaky Chardonnay.
Pinot Gris wines from the Matakana region show some variation in style, notably in levels of sweetness, but they tend to share the gentleness of aroma and flavour which characterize the variety and make it so appealing for many. A great summer wine.
Robin Ransom
President, Matakana Winegrowers Inc.
Robin@ransomwines.co.nz.
Originally published in Mahurangi Matters, January 2009
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( 3 / 460 )The 2008 vintage in Matakana produced more wine from the syrah grape than from any other except pinot gris. Syrah has in a sense “crept up on us” in recent years, as it was almost totally overlooked during the vine renaissance in NZ which started in the 1970s. Even today the total acreage of syrah in NZ is less than 300 hectares, compared with over 4500 of pinot noir, the most planted red grape, and over 11,500 of sauvignon blanc.
What do we know of its origins? Syrah comes from the Rhone Valley in Eastern France, where its apparent forebears, Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche, have been cultivated since Roman times. Two Northern Rhone regions, Hermitage and Cote Rotie are generally acknowledged today as producing the world’s finest wines made from this variety.
Syrah (then spelt “scyras” although probably pronounced as it is now) was brought to Australia in 1832 by Scotsman James Busby, considered the founding father of Australian viticulture. (Busby incidentally was British Resident in the Bay of Islands later in the 1830s and played a major role in the preparation and signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, as well as being the first person to make wine in New Zealand). He took several hundred vine cuttings to Australia, collected from all over France. From his initial plantings in the Hunter Valley syrah has spread all over and is now Australia’s most widely planted grape. These days it is called “shiraz” in Australia, although when and how that name came to be applied is lost in the mists of time.
Most New Zealand plantings of syrah are in Hawkes Bay. Some in that region see it as the great red hope which will re-establish Hawkes Bay as New Zealand’s premier red wine region. We are demonstrating that Matakana is also capable of producing very smart syrah. In this region, like its Bordeaux cousins cabernet and merlot, syrah tends to express warm, earthy complexity while Hawkes Bay versions can be fruit dominant. Both regions, along with Waiheke, are now producing some knockout wines from it.
Why has it taken so long for syrah to emerge in New Zealand? Maybe the wine industry here has always looked across the Tasman, seen how apparently well they do it there, and been a bit daunted about trying it here. However tastes in wine are changing as wine drinkers become more knowing. Australian shiraz has a “blockbuster” reputation while New Zealand syrahs tend to be more elegant and restrained – more like their Rhone Valley counterparts perhaps.
Indicative of how well we can do syrah is the fact that New Zealand versions are starting to show very well in Australian tastings, and in a number have outperformed the locals. While we are still tiny in volume it seems likely that the winegrowers of Oz are starting to look anxiously at our syrah efforts just as we have respected theirs for so long.
Robin Ransom
Originally published in Mahurangi Matters, November 2008
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