Health and Pleasure 
A number of research studies in the last 20 years or so have linked health benefits with moderate wine consumption. Most of these have focused on the anti-oxidant qualities of red wine in particular, with positive effects for inhibiting cancers, vascular disease, diabetes and other “lifestyle” conditions. A study conducted at Harvard Medical School in 2006 found that a compound in the skins of grapes called resveratrol was closely associated with these effects.

More recently a large-scale study in Scandinavia aimed at isolating environmental and genetic risk factors for rheumatoid arthritis, found that those who consumed alcohol regularly had a significantly lower risk of developing the disease.

Many of these studies have been epidemiological in nature. That is, they look at the health effects on populations – statistical effects, rather than health effects within individuals. In studies of this kind it can be difficult to isolate and evaluate all of the population characteristics which can contribute to the findings. But the sheer persistence and repetitive nature of “wine-friendly” research findings does make one wonder….

Another recent piece of research, this one from the US and not about health, looked at whether there is a link between the price people pay for wine and their enjoyment of it. This study was based upon a large sample of people doing blind tasting, so that they did not know what wine they were drinking. The sample contained both “expert” wine drinkers (those who had had some sort of training in wine appreciation), and “non-experts”. The findings showed that the non-experts tended to enjoy cheaper wines slightly more than expensive ones, while the experts preferred the more expensive wines.

I am prepared to bet that “the sugar effect” played a significant role in producing these findings. A good deal of wine is bottled these days with a little residual grape sugar, in order to broaden its appeal to the wider “non-expert” population, in a world awash with sugary beverages and foods. Because of the market these wines are produced for, they are made in large volumes and are generally cheaper. Most “experts” probably continue to prefer wines which are made in a more traditional dry style, with all of the grape sugar fermented out, because they complement food better. These wines are often made in smaller batches, with more care and attention both in the vineyard and winery, all of which makes them more expensive to produce.

Robin Ransom
President, Matakana Winegrowers Inc.
robin@ransomwines.co.nz

Originally published in Mahurangi Matters, July 2008

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